Discussion:
DX7 is not booting up at all!
creatorlars84
2009-05-24 18:48:52 UTC
Permalink
Hello all --

I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.

Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35 for a chip I can't at least guess will work.

Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Gil Sicuro
2009-05-24 21:30:37 UTC
Permalink
Heyas,

First thing, disconnect the power supply board to avid getting things any worst. Start checking the voltages there. Do you have the service manual?

cheerz




________________________________
From: creatorlars84 <***@gmail.com>
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:48:52 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!





Hello all --

I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.

Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35 for a chip I can't at least guess will work.

Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Lars Larsen
2009-05-24 21:35:03 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for the reply!

Voltages are all good on the power supply, measuring +5V, +15, -15. I do
have the service manual, but it seems to be missing full schematics or any
sort of testing procedures. (Board layouts, connector pinouts and block
diagram are included, however.)

What next?! :)
Post by Gil Sicuro
Heyas,
First thing, disconnect the power supply board to avid getting things any
worst. Start checking the voltages there. Do you have the service manual?
cheerz
------------------------------
*Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:48:52 PM
*Subject:* [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
Hello all --
I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this
synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED
display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't
get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced
the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the
battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean
inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the
worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like
with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.
Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know there
are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35 for a
chip I can't at least guess will work.
Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Lars Larsen
2009-05-24 21:38:37 UTC
Permalink
Another note after further testing. The LED digit display reads "88", not
"00". Occasionally when I turn it on, the first digit will be different,
"48", " 8", etc.
Post by Lars Larsen
Thanks for the reply!
Voltages are all good on the power supply, measuring +5V, +15, -15. I do
have the service manual, but it seems to be missing full schematics or any
sort of testing procedures. (Board layouts, connector pinouts and block
diagram are included, however.)
What next?! :)
Post by Gil Sicuro
Heyas,
First thing, disconnect the power supply board to avid getting things any
worst. Start checking the voltages there. Do you have the service manual?
cheerz
------------------------------
*Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:48:52 PM
*Subject:* [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
Hello all --
I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this
synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED
display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't
get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced
the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the
battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean
inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the
worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like
with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.
Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know
there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35
for a chip I can't at least guess will work.
Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Alan Probandt
2009-05-24 23:46:23 UTC
Permalink
A row of black squares on the LCD display means that the display controller is not getting initialized.   Check the clock to the CPU.  Check that enable pulses are going to the ROM memory chips, check that all the signals on the CPU are either 0 or +5 volts.
  All this requires an oscilloscope with at least 20MHz bandwidth.  The schematic (I believe) can be found in the files section of this Group.  Try the Yahoo! Vintage Synth Repair group also.
  It's not likely that the custom sound chips are bad.  It's most likely that over the years a solder connection in the traces that directly connect to the CPU has broken or cracked.  Go from pin to pin on the CPU with the scope probe.  Look first for a signal that is in between 0.5v and +4.5 volts.  If none, determine which pins should be changing at (the address, clock, and data pins of the CPU) and see if any are not changing.  Resolder that connection between the IC and the PCB.  Check with a DVM for continuity between the pin on the CPU and those pins on the ICs that connect to that net-trace.
  These are standard procedures for troubleshooting a microprocessor-based device that a repair shop would do.  If you do take it to a shop, download and print out (as large as necessary to be able to read) the DX7 schematic and give it to the technicians with the unit.  This will save a little money and tech time.
 
  Good luck.

--- On Sun, 5/24/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, May 24, 2009, 2:38 PM












Another note after further testing.  The LED digit display reads "88", not "00".  Occasionally when I turn it on, the first digit will be different, "48", " 8", etc.


On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the reply!

Voltages are all good on the power supply, measuring +5V, +15, -15.  I do have the service manual, but it seems to be missing full schematics or any sort of testing procedures.  (Board layouts, connector pinouts and block diagram are included, however.)

What next?! :)









On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:30 PM, Gil Sicuro <***@yahoo.com> wrote:










Heyas,
 
First thing, disconnect the power supply board to avid getting things any worst. Start checking the voltages there. Do you have the service manual?
 
cheerz





From: creatorlars84 <***@gmail.com>
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:48:52 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!




Hello all --

I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.

Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35 for a chip I can't at least guess will work.

Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Gil Sicuro
2009-05-25 00:16:57 UTC
Permalink
I believe the DX7 service manual we have here in the list is incomplete, the same found everywhere on the net. If a merciful soul can upload a full scan of the DX7 schematics and service manual that would be very much appreciated.

cheers




________________________________
From: Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com>
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 8:46:23 PM
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!





A row of black squares on the LCD display means that the display controller is not getting initialized. Check the clock to the CPU. Check that enable pulses are going to the ROM memory chips, check that all the signals on the CPU are either 0 or +5 volts.
All this requires an oscilloscope with at least 20MHz bandwidth. The schematic (I believe) can be found in the files section of this Group. Try the Yahoo! Vintage Synth Repair group also.
It's not likely that the custom sound chips are bad. It's most likely that over the years a solder connection in the traces that directly connect to the CPU has broken or cracked. Go from pin to pin on the CPU with the scope probe. Look first for a signal that is in between 0.5v and +4.5 volts. If none, determine which pins should be changing at (the address, clock, and data pins of the CPU) and see if any are not changing. Resolder that connection between the IC and the PCB. Check with a DVM for continuity between the pin on the CPU and those pins on the ICs that connect to that net-trace.
These are standard procedures for troubleshooting a microprocessor- based device that a repair shop would do. If you do take it to a shop, download and print out (as large as necessary to be able to read) the DX7 schematic and give it to the technicians with the unit. This will save a little money and tech time.

Good luck.

--- On Sun, 5/24/09, Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Date: Sunday, May 24, 2009, 2:38 PM




Another note after further testing. The LED digit display reads "88", not "00". Occasionally when I turn it on, the first digit will be different, "48", " 8", etc.


On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the reply!

Voltages are all good on the power supply, measuring +5V, +15, -15. I do have the service manual, but it seems to be missing full schematics or any sort of testing procedures. (Board layouts, connector pinouts and block diagram are included, however.)

What next?! :)







On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:30 PM, Gil Sicuro <***@yahoo. com> wrote:




Heyas,

First thing, disconnect the power supply board to avid getting things any worst. Start checking the voltages there. Do you have the service manual?

cheerz




________________________________
From: creatorlars84 <creatorlars@ gmail.com>
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:48:52 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!



Hello all --

I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.

Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35 for a chip I can't at least guess will work.

Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Lars Larsen
2009-05-25 03:07:15 UTC
Permalink
This is great advice. I know how to debug analogue circuits, but have
little familiarity with uProcessors and rom chips, etc. I'll go through it
thoroughly this week. I agree full schematics would be very helpful so that
I know the pin-out on the CPU chips. Maybe it's something simple like a bad
crystal.
Post by Gil Sicuro
I believe the DX7 service manual we have here in the list is incomplete,
the same found everywhere on the net. If a merciful soul can upload a full
scan of the DX7 schematics and service manual that would be very much
appreciated.
cheers
------------------------------
*Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2009 8:46:23 PM
*Subject:* Re: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
A row of black squares on the LCD display means that the display
controller is not getting initialized. Check the clock to the CPU. Check
that enable pulses are going to the ROM memory chips, check that all the
signals on the CPU are either 0 or +5 volts.
All this requires an oscilloscope with at least 20MHz bandwidth. The
schematic (I believe) can be found in the files section of this Group. Try
the Yahoo! Vintage Synth Repair group also.
It's not likely that the custom sound chips are bad. It's most likely
that over the years a solder connection in the traces that directly connect
to the CPU has broken or cracked. Go from pin to pin on the CPU with the
scope probe. Look first for a signal that is in between 0.5v and +4.5
volts. If none, determine which pins should be changing at (the address,
clock, and data pins of the CPU) and see if any are not changing. Resolder
that connection between the IC and the PCB. Check with a DVM for continuity
between the pin on the CPU and those pins on the ICs that connect to that
net-trace.
These are standard procedures for troubleshooting a microprocessor- based
device that a repair shop would do. If you do take it to a shop, download
and print out (as large as necessary to be able to read) the DX7 schematic
and give it to the technicians with the unit. This will save a little money
and tech time.
Good luck.
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
Date: Sunday, May 24, 2009, 2:38 PM
Another note after further testing. The LED digit display reads "88", not
"00". Occasionally when I turn it on, the first digit will be different,
"48", " 8", etc.
Post by Lars Larsen
Thanks for the reply!
Voltages are all good on the power supply, measuring +5V, +15, -15. I do
have the service manual, but it seems to be missing full schematics or any
sort of testing procedures. (Board layouts, connector pinouts and block
diagram are included, however.)
What next?! :)
Post by Gil Sicuro
Heyas,
First thing, disconnect the power supply board to avid getting things any
worst. Start checking the voltages there. Do you have the service manual?
cheerz
------------------------------
*Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:48:52 PM
*Subject:* [YamahaDX] DX7 is not booting up at all!
Hello all --
I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this
synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED
display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't
get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced
the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the
battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean
inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the
worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like
with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.
Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know
there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35
for a chip I can't at least guess will work.
Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Paul
2009-05-26 19:08:00 UTC
Permalink
Hi Lars,

I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8 A4s, I taped them all together (I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and 6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.

Good Luck

Paul
Gil Sicuro
2009-05-26 19:24:40 UTC
Permalink
The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like everywhere else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very helpful if a merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete scan of the service manual.

cheers




________________________________
From: Paul <***@toucansurf.com>
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!





Hi Lars,

I echo the responces so far, however I believe that
the full schematic for the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here
as well), but I don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those
as a PDF send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8 A4s,
I taped them all together (I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on
IC51 pin 4 and then at half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses
on IC49 pins 3 and 6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7
schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this
soon.

Good Luck

Paul
Lars Larsen
2009-05-26 23:40:24 UTC
Permalink
Okay, I've checked all the clock frequencies as described to the CPU and Sub
CPU and everything looks okay. Going to continue investigating, but any
further suggestions on where to look next to diagnose this specific problem
would really be appreciated.

It'd be nice to be able to diagnose if there's a problem with one of the CPU
chips themselves before spending a whole weekend testing every trace on the
board for continuity, and I'm not sure what the logical place to look next
is. Where should I check to be 100% sure that the CPU is not dead?
Post by Gil Sicuro
The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like everywhere
else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very helpful if a
merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete scan of the
service manual.
cheers
------------------------------
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
*Subject:* [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Hi Lars,
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for
the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I
don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF
send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8 A4s, I taped them all together (I
don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at
half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and
6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
Good Luck
Paul
Lars Larsen
2009-05-26 19:13:06 UTC
Permalink
Great, thanks Paul! Having specific pins to check is extremely helpful.
I'll dig up the pdf you've mentioned and I'll report back after I've opened
it back up. I have a photocopied service manual that came with the synth,
but never got to talk with the previous owner as I purchased it through a
friend. I'll check the paper copy I have against anything I find online,
and will definitely upload PDFs of any missing material.

Lars
Post by Paul
Hi Lars,
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for
the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I
don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF
send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8 A4s, I taped them all together (I
don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at
half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and
6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
Good Luck
Paul
Alan Probandt
2009-05-27 00:29:16 UTC
Permalink
Hello,
  Do you have access to an oscilloscope?  Even a simple 20MHz bandwidth entry-level scope would be good.
  I attach a wire to the + scope lead with a lead that has two alligator clips on each end. Then attach the gnd lead to the ground of the DX7.  I 'brush' the end of the 'wire' probe one by one on each of the pins of the memory chips while the DX7 is running. I check for activity between 0 and +5 on all the address and data lines of each memory chip.  It doesn't take very long, only a few minutes.  If you see activity (the signal bouncing between 0 and +5 on these pins) then the CPU is working. 
 Maybe the DX7 is working except for the LCD display.
 

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 4:40 PM












Okay, I've checked all the clock frequencies as described to the CPU and Sub CPU and everything looks okay.  Going to continue investigating, but any further suggestions on where to look next to diagnose this specific problem would really be appreciated. 

It'd be nice to be able to diagnose if there's a problem with one of the CPU chips themselves before spending a whole weekend testing every trace on the board for continuity, and I'm not sure what the logical place to look next is.  Where should I check to be 100% sure that the CPU is not dead?


On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 2:24 PM, Gil Sicuro <***@yahoo.com> wrote:










The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like everywhere else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very helpful if a merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete scan of the service manual.

cheers





From: Paul <***@toucansurf.com>
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!





Hi Lars,
 
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8  A4s, I taped them all together  (I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and 6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
 
Good Luck
 
Paul
 
Lars Larsen
2009-05-27 01:36:10 UTC
Permalink
Cool. I'm definitely seeing a pulse on all of the RAM pins, but it's not
very clean looking (my oscilloscope is a very old Heathkit model so that is
probably why.) I'll check all the RAM and ROM chips, but I guess this means
the CPU is running at least. I would suspect a dead LCD too, but both the
LED digits and the LCD display are giving me nothing. How can I more
specifically test the initialization of the display drivers?
Post by Alan Probandt
Hello,
Do you have access to an oscilloscope? Even a simple 20MHz bandwidth
entry-level scope would be good.
I attach a wire to the + scope lead with a lead that has two alligator
clips on each end. Then attach the gnd lead to the ground of the DX7. I
'brush' the end of the 'wire' probe one by one on each of the pins of the
memory chips while the DX7 is running. I check for activity between 0 and +5
on all the address and data lines of each memory chip. It doesn't take very
long, only a few minutes. If you see activity (the signal bouncing between
0 and +5 on these pins) then the CPU is working.
Maybe the DX7 is working except for the LCD display.
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 4:40 PM
Okay, I've checked all the clock frequencies as described to the CPU and
Sub CPU and everything looks okay. Going to continue investigating, but any
further suggestions on where to look next to diagnose this specific problem
would really be appreciated.
It'd be nice to be able to diagnose if there's a problem with one of the
CPU chips themselves before spending a whole weekend testing every trace on
the board for continuity, and I'm not sure what the logical place to look
next is. Where should I check to be 100% sure that the CPU is not dead?
Post by Gil Sicuro
The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like
everywhere else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very
helpful if a merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete
scan of the service manual.
cheers
------------------------------
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
*Subject:* [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Hi Lars,
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for
the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I
don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF
send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8 A4s, I taped them all together
(I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at
half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and
6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
Good Luck
Paul
Gregg Sheehan
2009-05-27 02:28:27 UTC
Permalink
Lars,
These can be a real bastard to troubleshoot, even for seasoned pro's. Even if it looks good on every Adress line and every Data line, you can still have something goofy in CPU -land. A bad cell in a RAM chip can cause lock-up. Generally if you get some signal that looks like data, at the approximate correct voltage levels, on these lines, it's correct. Even with a crap, low bandwidth scope. The easiest way is to borrow somebody's DX, and swap out the display board. If it works, in that case, it can still be not caused by the display driver IC. This is where you may consider a "shotgun" approach and just replace the associated TTL chips ( 74, 74LS, 74HCTxx), sometimes called drivers, latches, etc. Or just buy the main display IC and replace it.This assumes you can sucessfully unsolder resolder IC's without causing more damage. If you can follow the logic through chip enables/ read/write, etc.with a schematic, you can sometiomes find it. Sometimes it's
faster and cheaper to buy a junker DX for parts, and use it for a parts horse. It may be beyond your abilities and sadly, time to buck up, and take it to a pro. I have even had bad displays that caused symptoms similar. There is no easy answer , unfortunately. Best of luck. Swap out the socketed IC's where you can- first. IE. bad ROM- they can die with old age, etc.This is always the easiest approach. I think most would agree.

Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 6:36 PM








Cool.  I'm definitely seeing a pulse on all of the RAM pins, but it's not very clean looking (my oscilloscope is a very old Heathkit model so that is probably why.)  I'll check all the RAM and ROM chips, but I guess this means the CPU is running at least.  I would suspect a dead LCD too, but both the LED digits and the LCD display are giving me nothing.  How can I more specifically test the initialization of the display drivers?


On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 7:29 PM, Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com> wrote:













Hello,
  Do you have access to an oscilloscope?  Even a simple 20MHz bandwidth entry-level scope would be good.
  I attach a wire to the + scope lead with a lead that has two alligator clips on each end. Then attach the gnd lead to the ground of the DX7.  I 'brush' the end of the 'wire' probe one by one on each of the pins of the memory chips while the DX7 is running. I check for activity between 0 and +5 on all the address and data lines of each memory chip.  It doesn't take very long, only a few minutes.  If you see activity (the signal bouncing between 0 and +5 on these pins) then the CPU is working. 
 Maybe the DX7 is working except for the LCD display.

 

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com> wrote:



From: Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 4:40 PM





Okay, I've checked all the clock frequencies as described to the CPU and Sub CPU and everything looks okay.  Going to continue investigating, but any further suggestions on where to look next to diagnose this specific problem would really be appreciated. 

It'd be nice to be able to diagnose if there's a problem with one of the CPU chips themselves before spending a whole weekend testing every trace on the board for continuity, and I'm not sure what the logical place to look next is.  Where should I check to be 100% sure that the CPU is not dead?


On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 2:24 PM, Gil Sicuro <***@yahoo. com> wrote:










The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like everywhere else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very helpful if a merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete scan of the service manual.

cheers





From: Paul <***@toucansur f.com>
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!





Hi Lars,
 
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8  A4s, I taped them all together  (I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and 6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
 
Good Luck
 
Paul
 


























__________________________________________________________________
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca
Lars Larsen
2009-05-27 02:52:21 UTC
Permalink
Hey Gregg -- Sorry if I seem impatient, and for all the spam on your list.
:) You guys have been more than helpful. Unfortunately getting this
pro-serviced is way out of budget (the only local guy charges $200 to even
look at a vintage synth, even if he can't fix it.) Mainly I'm interested in
seeing if I can get it back to life for my own personal
satisfaction/edification. If I can't get it working, I'll code a simple
uProcessor based MIDI Keyboard using the existing keybed, and then gut the
rest... plenty of room in this case and power supply to put some analog
circuits!

Tell me if this sounds right...

Using my DVM as a frequency meter, I am reading "1.18MHz" going into pins
AD0-AD7 going into IC32 74LS254. Reading the output pins (D0-D7), I am
reading "1.18MHz" but not on pins D0, D2, & D3. The voltage levels on these
pins are lower than the pins reading "1.18MHz" as well. Does this sound
like a bad chip?
Post by Gregg Sheehan
Lars,
These can be a real bastard to troubleshoot, even for seasoned pro's. Even
if it looks good on every Adress line and every Data line, you can still
have something goofy in CPU -land. A bad cell in a RAM chip can cause
lock-up. Generally if you get some signal that looks like data, at the
approximate correct voltage levels, on these lines, it's correct. Even with
a crap, low bandwidth scope. The easiest way is to borrow somebody's DX, and
swap out the display board. If it works, in that case, it can still be *
not* caused by the display driver IC. This is where you may consider a
"shotgun" approach and just replace the associated TTL chips ( 74, 74LS,
74HCTxx), sometimes called drivers, latches, etc. Or just buy the main
display IC and replace it.This assumes you can sucessfully unsolder resolder
IC's without causing more damage. If you can follow the logic through chip
enables/ read/write, etc.with a schematic, you can sometiomes find it.
Sometimes it's faster and cheaper to buy a junker DX for parts, and use it
for a parts horse. It may be beyond your abilities and sadly, time to buck
up, and take it to a pro. I have even had bad displays that caused symptoms
similar. There is no easy answer , unfortunately. Best of luck. Swap out the
socketed IC's where you can- first. IE. bad ROM- they can die with old age,
etc.This is always the easiest approach. I think most would agree.
Gregg Sheehan
*If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5
billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious
group, and respect their delusionary state.*
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 6:36 PM
Cool. I'm definitely seeing a pulse on all of the RAM pins, but it's not
very clean looking (my oscilloscope is a very old Heathkit model so that is
probably why.) I'll check all the RAM and ROM chips, but I guess this means
the CPU is running at least. I would suspect a dead LCD too, but both the
LED digits and the LCD display are giving me nothing. How can I more
specifically test the initialization of the display drivers?
Post by Alan Probandt
Hello,
Do you have access to an oscilloscope? Even a simple 20MHz bandwidth
entry-level scope would be good.
I attach a wire to the + scope lead with a lead that has two alligator
clips on each end. Then attach the gnd lead to the ground of the DX7. I
'brush' the end of the 'wire' probe one by one on each of the pins of the
memory chips while the DX7 is running. I check for activity between 0 and +5
on all the address and data lines of each memory chip. It doesn't take very
long, only a few minutes. If you see activity (the signal bouncing between
0 and +5 on these pins) then the CPU is working.
Maybe the DX7 is working except for the LCD display.
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 4:40 PM
Okay, I've checked all the clock frequencies as described to the CPU and
Sub CPU and everything looks okay. Going to continue investigating, but any
further suggestions on where to look next to diagnose this specific problem
would really be appreciated.
It'd be nice to be able to diagnose if there's a problem with one of the
CPU chips themselves before spending a whole weekend testing every trace on
the board for continuity, and I'm not sure what the logical place to look
next is. Where should I check to be 100% sure that the CPU is not dead?
Post by Gil Sicuro
The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like
everywhere else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very
helpful if a merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete
scan of the service manual.
cheers
------------------------------
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
*Subject:* [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Hi Lars,
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic
for the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I
don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF
send them up !
The schematic is on the form of about 8 A4s, I taped them all together
(I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at
half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and
6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
Good Luck
Paul
------------------------------
The new Internet Explorer® 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo!
*Get it Now for Free!* <http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/>
Wayne Kolybabi
2009-05-27 05:35:08 UTC
Permalink
I'm not electronicly saavy but just a thought..... Do you get any sound when you insert a ROM Cartridge or is that silent too ?  Maybe you don't have any files saved to the 32 internal memory banks.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 6:36 PM

















Cool.  I'm definitely seeing a pulse on all of the RAM pins, but it's not very clean looking (my oscilloscope is a very old Heathkit model so that is probably why.)  I'll check all the RAM and ROM chips, but I guess this means the CPU is running at least.  I would suspect a dead LCD too, but both the LED digits and the LCD display are giving me nothing.  How can I more specifically test the initialization of the display drivers?


On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 7:29 PM, Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com> wrote:

























Hello,
  Do you have access to an oscilloscope?  Even a simple 20MHz bandwidth entry-level scope would be good.
  I attach a wire to the + scope lead with a lead that has two alligator clips on each end. Then attach the gnd lead to the ground of the DX7.  I 'brush' the end of the 'wire' probe one by one on each of the pins of the memory chips while the DX7 is running. I check for activity between 0 and +5 on all the address and data lines of each memory chip.  It doesn't take very long, only a few minutes.  If you see activity (the signal bouncing between 0 and +5 on these pins) then the CPU is working. 

 Maybe the DX7 is working except for the LCD display.
 

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!

To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 4:40 PM








Okay, I've checked all the clock frequencies as described to the CPU and Sub CPU and everything looks okay.  Going to continue investigating, but any further suggestions on where to look next to diagnose this specific problem would really be appreciated. 


It'd be nice to be able to diagnose if there's a problem with one of the CPU chips themselves before spending a whole weekend testing every trace on the board for continuity, and I'm not sure what the logical place to look next is.  Where should I check to be 100% sure that the CPU is not dead?



On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 2:24 PM, Gil Sicuro <***@yahoo. com> wrote:











The schematics at the Dave Bensons site is truncated jusr like everywhere else on the net. Altough it's a good start, it would be very helpful if a merciful soul can post to this list's files a new and complete scan of the service manual.


cheers





From: Paul <***@toucansur f.com>
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:08:00 PM
Subject: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!





Hi Lars,
 
I echo the responces so far, however I believe that the full schematic for the DX7 is on Dave Bensons site (I thoaught it was here as well), but I don't think I have ever seen any PCB layouts, if you have those as a PDF send them up !

The schematic is on the form of about 8  A4s, I taped them all together  (I don't have an A0 printer !)
Yes first check for microprocessor main clock on IC51 pin 4 and then at half the frequency on IC48 pins 5 and 9, then as pulses on IC49 pins 3 and 6.
I am quoting from the file called "DX7 schematics.pdf" that is on the WEB.
I will have a further look into this soon.
 
Good Luck
 
Paul
 






























































__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.
Alan Probandt
2009-05-27 06:06:14 UTC
Permalink
Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.  Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear.   I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic.  The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s.  This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
  IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18).  Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.  Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0.  Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus.  Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave.  Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system.  All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity.  If their is no activity check the corresponding data/address pin opposite it for activity.  IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low.  The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.

  If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any signal, then it should be replaced.  I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find.   Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip.  Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board.  Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs.  Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.
Lars Larsen
2009-05-27 07:21:04 UTC
Permalink
Thanks again for all the debugging help! I'll figure this out yet. It
looks like the 74LS245 is probably fine -- I checked the outputs of pins
AD0-AD7 on the main uProcessor and pins D0-D7 on the RAM & ROM chips for
signal. Since the D0-D7 pins are what go to the LED/LCD displays, I figure
those are best to check first. AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 are all giving me a
very weak signal (something like 0 to 0.5V instead of 0 to 3.7V like the
other five pins.) The signal is there though, it just looks like the
amplitude is not high enough... so after what you've said, this doesn't seem
right to me. I also tested for continuity between the 74LS245 pins 11-18
and the appropriate pins on the ROM & RAM chips and everything is okay
there. (I resocketed the RAM & ROM chips as well, just to be safe as
suggested.)

With that in mind, what could be causing the weak signal on just those
pins? Does this point to any specific ideas?
Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth. Most
likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage
microprocessor gear. I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7
schematic. The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular
for a period of time in the late 1970s. This was the CPU in the first
computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in
1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E'
that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between
the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely
should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins
of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18). Actually any voltage level on
the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.
Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0. Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an
invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus. Pin 19 will
show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although
probably not a square wave. Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the
system. All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show
constant activity. If their is no activity check the corresponding
data/address pin opposite it for activity. IC32 allows data on one side of
the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low. The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound
chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.
If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any
signal, then it should be replaced. I'll catch the devil for saying this,
but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find. Get
a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip
right at the body of the chip. Leave the other end of the pins soldered to
the board. Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the
old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through
the new chip and to the memory ICs. Don't use the frequency meter to test
if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.
Alan Probandt
2009-05-27 15:24:49 UTC
Permalink
  Those signals aren't weak, they're wrong.  Digital chips like the 74xx series put out logic levels only.  Anything below 0.7 is a logic 0 and anything above 3.5 is logic 1.  If the signal on the data pins on the right side of the chip (pins 11-18) is always logic 0, it's not right.
  The real question is what is causes this.  Half the time these pins (11-18) are input and half they are output. One side is the CPU and the other side is the data bus that goes all over the place.
   I've read that the 40xxx digital chips were often the first to burn out in a 1980's microprocessor-based system.  On this system, those would be the LED driver chips, IC25 and IC26.  If you removed those, either by pulling them out of sockets, or, more likely by clipping the chip body from the pin leads, the LED display would be dead. But the circuit would possibly now work.  IC25 and 26 could be replaced by 74HCT374 chips, which are cheap, common, and would drive the LED segments.  This seems to me to be the most likely trouble point that is crashing the data bus.

Alan Probandt
Portland, Oregon USA (1000 km north of San Francisco, 300 km south of Seattle)

--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 12:21 AM





















Thanks again for all the debugging help!  I'll figure this out yet.  It looks like the 74LS245 is probably fine -- I checked the outputs of pins AD0-AD7 on the main uProcessor and pins D0-D7 on the RAM & ROM chips for signal.  Since the D0-D7 pins are what go to the LED/LCD displays, I figure those are best to check first.  AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 are all giving me a very weak signal (something like 0 to 0.5V instead of 0 to 3.7V like the other five pins.)  The signal is there though, it just looks like the amplitude is not high enough... so after what you've said, this doesn't seem right to me.  I also tested for continuity between the 74LS245 pins 11-18 and the appropriate pins on the ROM & RAM chips and everything is okay there.  (I resocketed the RAM & ROM chips as well, just to be safe as suggested.)  


With that in mind, what could be causing the weak signal on just those pins?  Does this point to any specific ideas?

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 1:06 AM, Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com> wrote:

























Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.  Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear.   I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic.  The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s.  This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.

  IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins
11-18).  Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.  Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0.  Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus.  Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave.  Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system.  All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity.  If their is no activity check the corresponding data/address pin opposite it for activity.  IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is low.  The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.


  If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not
showing any signal, then it should be replaced.  I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find.   Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip.  Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board.  Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs.  Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.
Gregg Sheehan
2009-05-27 17:28:24 UTC
Permalink
Alan's right. Use the scope. For digital work, a DMM goes about as far as the power supply for a troubleshooting tool.He is also right about the specific voltage levels of data and address signals. They are rarely perfect 0 VDC and 5VDC. This is where experience will tell you that a good data line, for example is typically 3.5 volts high( or higher), and conversly "off" will not be perfectly zero but around.7 (transistor threshold).
All this yapping and typing, is refreshing my memory ( pun intended). DX UPC troubleshooting 101----make sure the reset circuitry is functioning. Monitor the reset line with scope- power up and after a short delay, there should be a state change and the reset line will then settle to whatever it's normal running state is. (Hi/ low? -I forget- the schematic will say- "reset" with the "not"line over is active low, run state is high) Note that this happens a short time AFTER the supply voltages come up.
 Another point of failure- the D/A converter and D/A buffer. I will look at a schematic and see if anything else pops up. Is the power supply clean?- ripple will cause many headaches. Pooched filter caps were common.
Re: the guy charging 200.00. It sounds like a lot, but imagine spending an afternoon doing this with no resolution. You only make what you bill out. I'm fixing an OB-8 right now- same type of problem- it will be expensive, but these go for huge money right now- almost approaching new list price- 3-4K$, so it's worth it, to spend 200-500 on repair. Not so our beloved DX boards, unfortunately. It's like all the cheap throw away Chinese audio appliances, n'est pas?

Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 11:06 PM












Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.  Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear.   I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic.  The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s.  This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
  IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18).  Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.  Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0.  Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus.  Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave.  Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system.  All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity.  If their is no activity check the corresponding data/address pin opposite it for activity.  IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low.  The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.

  If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any signal, then it should be replaced.  I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find.   Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip.  Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board.  Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs.  Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.


















__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.
Lars Larsen
2009-05-27 17:56:08 UTC
Permalink
Good, thanks for the advice. It's definitely apparent that I'm not getting
valid signals on AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 but the others look okay.

I removed IC25 & IC26 as suggested. This seemed to make a lot of sense,
since the left LED digit would give random values upon power up -- and
sometimes change to another random value when I heard the reset "click".
Whereas the right one would always show "8." This didn't fix the issue,
though. But I can order replacement chips as suggested when/if I get the
rest of the circuit operational.

I am seeing a high pulse at the Reset pin of the main uProcessor shortly
after startup, then it stays low. So I don't think it's constantly
resetting itself or anything. Something somewhere has to be crashing the
data bus on those three lines. Power looks good to me -- how can I check
for ripple? Caps show no signs of bulging/leaking. I don't guess there's
an easy way to isolate parts of the circuit to check for faults. Awful lot
of chips to replace one by one -- don't think I'd want to go that far,
unless I had a good guess what was wrong.

I agree that the amount of work put into debugging a circuit like this is
worth the money for the expertise -- but, as you've said, not worth it for
the DX when I can wait and get a new one sometime for under 200 easily. I
paid 50 for this one, the guy told me it just needed a new battery
(obviously just trying to get rid of it.)

Any other ideas/guesses greatly appreciated! I'll keep poking in it as I
continue to think of stuff to test/try.

Thanks,
Lars
Post by Gregg Sheehan
Alan's right. Use the scope. For digital work, a DMM goes about as far as
the power supply for a troubleshooting tool.He is also right about the
specific voltage levels of data and address signals. They are rarely
perfect 0 VDC and 5VDC. This is where experience will tell you that a good
data line, for example is typically 3.5 volts high( or higher), and
conversly "off" will not be perfectly zero but around.7 (transistor
threshold).
All this yapping and typing, is refreshing my memory ( pun intended). DX
UPC troubleshooting 101----make sure the reset circuitry is functioning.
Monitor the reset line with scope- power up and after a short delay, there
should be a state change and the reset line will then settle to whatever
it's normal running state is. (Hi/ low? -I forget- the schematic will say-
"reset" with the "not"line over is active low, run state is high) Note that
this happens a short time AFTER the supply voltages come up.
Another point of failure- the D/A converter and D/A buffer. I will look at
a schematic and see if anything else pops up. Is the power supply clean?-
ripple will cause many headaches. Pooched filter caps were common.
Re: the guy charging 200.00. It sounds like a lot, but imagine spending an
afternoon doing this with no resolution. You only make what you bill out.
I'm fixing an OB-8 right now- same type of problem- it will be expensive,
but these go for huge money right now- almost approaching new list price-
3-4K$, so it's worth it, to spend 200-500 on repair. Not so our beloved DX
boards, unfortunately. It's like all the cheap throw away Chinese audio
appliances, n'est pas?
Gregg Sheehan
*If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5
billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious
group, and respect their delusionary state.*
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 11:06 PM
Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.
Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with
vintage microprocessor gear. I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7
schematic. The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular
for a period of time in the late 1970s. This was the CPU in the first
computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in
1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E'
that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between
the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely
should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins
of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18). Actually any voltage level on
the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.
Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0. Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an
invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus. Pin 19 will
show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although
probably not a square wave. Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the
system. All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show
constant activity. If their is no activity check the corresponding
data/address pin opposite it for activity. IC32 allows data on one side of
the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low. The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound
chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.
If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any
signal, then it should be replaced. I'll catch the devil for saying this,
but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find. Get
a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip
right at the body of the chip. Leave the other end of the pins soldered to
the board. Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the
old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through
the new chip and to the memory ICs. Don't use the frequency meter to test
if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.
------------------------------
Looking for the perfect gift?* Give the gift of Flickr!*<http://www.flickr.com/gift/>
Paul
2009-05-27 18:44:03 UTC
Permalink
Hi Lars,

Well done so far, one thing that has just occured to me is to disconnect (carefully) all the connectors and re-connect them, over the years ( a few decades !) the mating surfaces can tarnish and a disconnect-reconnect cycle gives them a clean. The LCD has a standard interface for character style LCDs and any 16 X 2 LCD with the connections on the long edge will almost certanly fit, I relaced mine with a backlit unit for less than £10 ( $15 ). When I first got mine, as an electro-geek , the first thing I did was cycle all the connectors and replace the battery (much easier with the motherboard removed !)

The things that appear to be missing from the WEB service manual are the PCB drawings and some of the fault charts I think, the schematic itself appears complete, if even has the circuit of the cartridges (I made myself an 8 bank RAM cart from it)

I echo the use of a 'scope a worthwhile addition to the arsenal if you are getting into electronics or instrument fixing, failing that a low current LED plus resistor will tell you whether the line is High . Low or pulsing (fast pulses will make it a bit dimmer)

All for now, keep up the good work

Paul
Gregg Sheehan
2009-05-27 19:03:53 UTC
Permalink
Lars,
 
To look at something that is basically a shifting DC level, not an AC waveform just sitting  above zero, put the scope input channel in Ground mode, center (move) the trace. Put the same channel in DC mode, now. Vertical at 1 or 2volts/ division. Horizontal around 1- 10ms. This way the center of the screen represents 0 VDC, up is positive, down is negative. This allows you to see relatively slow transitions in DC level, just like  reset lines! This also, with the Horizontal set faster, allows you to view tri-state data lines, meaning data signals, both above and below zero, looking almost like a very high frequency audio signal crossing zero in the middle, albeit clipped. Fairly common.
Re: PS Ripple. Since the power supply is supposed to be clean DC, the trace will be above zero, if positive, etc. and perfectly flat......any deviation, or wavey-looking stuff is power supply garbage, usually indicating bad electrolytics. Increase the horizontal speed and check for high frequency RF garbage while you're there, as well.
Once you get good with a scope, you can measure anything, very accurately. The newer ones usually have built in adjustable cursers/ measurment displays anyway, for voltage, period, freq, delta-V, digital modes for signal capture, etc: real easy.

Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 10:56 AM








Good, thanks for the advice.  It's definitely apparent that I'm not getting valid signals on AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 but the others look okay.

I removed IC25 & IC26 as suggested.  This seemed to make a lot of sense, since the left LED digit would give random values upon power up -- and sometimes change to another random value when I heard the reset "click".  Whereas the right one would always show "8."  This didn't fix the issue, though.  But I can order replacement chips as suggested when/if I get the rest of the circuit operational. 

I am seeing a high pulse at the Reset pin of the main uProcessor shortly after startup, then it stays low.  So I don't think it's constantly resetting itself or anything.  Something somewhere has to be crashing the data bus on those three lines.  Power looks good to me -- how can I check for ripple?  Caps show no signs of bulging/leaking.  I don't guess there's an easy way to isolate parts of the circuit to check for faults.  Awful lot of chips to replace one by one -- don't think I'd want to go that far, unless I had a good guess what was wrong.

I agree that the amount of work put into debugging a circuit like this is worth the money for the expertise -- but, as you've said, not worth it for the DX when I can wait and get a new one sometime for under 200 easily.  I paid 50 for this one, the guy told me it just needed a new battery (obviously just trying to get rid of it.)

Any other ideas/guesses greatly appreciated!  I'll keep poking in it as I continue to think of stuff to test/try.

Thanks,
Lars



On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 12:28 PM, Gregg Sheehan <***@yahoo. com> wrote:













Alan's right. Use the scope. For digital work, a DMM goes about as far as the power supply for a troubleshooting tool.He is also right about the specific voltage levels of data and address signals. They are rarely perfect 0 VDC and 5VDC. This is where experience will tell you that a good data line, for example is typically 3.5 volts high( or higher), and conversly "off" will not be perfectly zero but around.7 (transistor threshold).
All this yapping and typing, is refreshing my memory ( pun intended). DX UPC troubleshooting 101----make sure the reset circuitry is functioning. Monitor the reset line with scope- power up and after a short delay, there should be a state change and the reset line will then settle to whatever it's normal running state is. (Hi/ low? -I forget- the schematic will say- "reset" with the "not"line over is active low, run state is high) Note that this happens a short time AFTER the supply voltages come up.
 Another point of failure- the D/A converter and D/A buffer. I will look at a schematic and see if anything else pops up. Is the power supply clean?- ripple will cause many headaches. Pooched filter caps were common.
Re: the guy charging 200.00. It sounds like a lot, but imagine spending an afternoon doing this with no resolution. You only make what you bill out. I'm fixing an OB-8 right now- same type of problem- it will be expensive, but these go for huge money right now- almost approaching new list price- 3-4K$, so it's worth it, to spend 200-500 on repair. Not so our beloved DX boards, unfortunately. It's like all the cheap throw away Chinese audio appliances, n'est pas?


Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 11:06 PM









Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.  Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear.   I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic.  The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s.  This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
  IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18).  Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.  Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0.  Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus.  Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave.  Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system.  All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity.  If their is no activity check the corresponding data/address pin opposite it for activity.  IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low.  The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.

  If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any signal, then it should be replaced.  I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find.   Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip.  Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board.  Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs.  Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.






Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!

















__________________________________________________________________
Make your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Internet Explorer® 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
Alan Probandt
2009-05-28 00:37:21 UTC
Permalink
To check ripple, set the scope on AC input; 1 volt per division.  Put the probe on the +5V, the +15v line, or the -15V line,  NOT the main power 120VAC line.  Ripple will look like the top  of an airplane wing.  It shouldn't be more than a quarter volt peak-to-peak.
 
  As a microprocessor electronics technician, I disagree with the idea that someone should get $200 to 'look' at a an old system that costs $50.  A skilled person should be able to find obvious and 'easy' stuff in about a half hour of probing if they have a schematic.  They should charge $20 for that first half hour.  They should speak a report as the work into a speech-to-text program and give the text file either as a printed report or as a file on a flash disk to the customer if they can't fix the problem in a half hour.  They should charge no more than $40 an hour and no more than twice what they paid for the parts they replace.
  With the economy collapsing it's time people started being realistic about what they charge for the services they provide.  I know that everyone disagrees with me, but that's my opinion.  Thank you.
 

--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <***@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 10:56 AM












Good, thanks for the advice.  It's definitely apparent that I'm not getting valid signals on AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 but the others look okay.

I removed IC25 & IC26 as suggested.  This seemed to make a lot of sense, since the left LED digit would give random values upon power up -- and sometimes change to another random value when I heard the reset "click".  Whereas the right one would always show "8."  This didn't fix the issue, though.  But I can order replacement chips as suggested when/if I get the rest of the circuit operational. 

I am seeing a high pulse at the Reset pin of the main uProcessor shortly after startup, then it stays low.  So I don't think it's constantly resetting itself or anything.  Something somewhere has to be crashing the data bus on those three lines.  Power looks good to me -- how can I check for ripple?  Caps show no signs of bulging/leaking.  I don't guess there's an easy way to isolate parts of the circuit to check for faults.  Awful lot of chips to replace one by one -- don't think I'd want to go that far, unless I had a good guess what was wrong.

I agree that the amount of work put into debugging a circuit like this is worth the money for the expertise -- but, as you've said, not worth it for the DX when I can wait and get a new one sometime for under 200 easily.  I paid 50 for this one, the guy told me it just needed a new battery (obviously just trying to get rid of it.)

Any other ideas/guesses greatly appreciated!  I'll keep poking in it as I continue to think of stuff to test/try.

Thanks,
Lars



On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 12:28 PM, Gregg Sheehan <***@yahoo.com> wrote:













Alan's right. Use the scope. For digital work, a DMM goes about as far as the power supply for a troubleshooting tool.He is also right about the specific voltage levels of data and address signals. They are rarely perfect 0 VDC and 5VDC. This is where experience will tell you that a good data line, for example is typically 3.5 volts high( or higher), and conversly "off" will not be perfectly zero but around.7 (transistor threshold).
All this yapping and typing, is refreshing my memory ( pun intended). DX UPC troubleshooting 101----make sure the reset circuitry is functioning. Monitor the reset line with scope- power up and after a short delay, there should be a state change and the reset line will then settle to whatever it's normal running state is. (Hi/ low? -I forget- the schematic will say- "reset" with the "not"line over is active low, run state is high) Note that this happens a short time AFTER the supply voltages come up.
 Another point of failure- the D/A converter and D/A buffer. I will look at a schematic and see if anything else pops up. Is the power supply clean?- ripple will cause many headaches. Pooched filter caps were common.
Re: the guy charging 200.00. It sounds like a lot, but imagine spending an afternoon doing this with no resolution. You only make what you bill out. I'm fixing an OB-8 right now- same type of problem- it will be expensive, but these go for huge money right now- almost approaching new list price- 3-4K$, so it's worth it, to spend 200-500 on repair. Not so our beloved DX boards, unfortunately. It's like all the cheap throw away Chinese audio appliances, n'est pas?


Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 11:06 PM









Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.  Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear.   I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic.  The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s.  This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
  IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18).  Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.  Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0.  Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus.  Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave.  Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system.  All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity.  If their is no activity check the corresponding data/address pin opposite it for activity.  IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low.  The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.

  If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any signal, then it should be replaced.  I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find.   Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip.  Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board.  Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs.  Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.






Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
Gil Sicuro
2009-05-28 17:46:17 UTC
Permalink
Hello Alan and all you folks,

I have seen a lot of good and skilled people helping each other here, which is a wonderful spirit.

Altough this is not about a Yamaha DX, I wonder if someone here would kindly help me to debug a malfunctional Roland Jupiter-6? Seems the problem is not that serious, we could discuss in private to do not bring the list off topic.

Any help would be much appreciated. I can let the service manual available for download.



cheers

Gil



________________________________
From: Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com>
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:37:21 PM
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!





To check ripple, set the scope on AC input; 1 volt per division. Put the probe on the +5V, the +15v line, or the -15V line, NOT the main power 120VAC line. Ripple will look like the top of an airplane wing. It shouldn't be more than a quarter volt peak-to-peak.

As a microprocessor electronics technician, I disagree with the idea that someone should get $200 to 'look' at a an old system that costs $50. A skilled person should be able to find obvious and 'easy' stuff in about a half hour of probing if they have a schematic. They should charge $20 for that first half hour. They should speak a report as the work into a speech-to-text program and give the text file either as a printed report or as a file on a flash disk to the customer if they can't fix the problem in a half hour. They should charge no more than $40 an hour and no more than twice what they paid for the parts they replace.
With the economy collapsing it's time people started being realistic about what they charge for the services they provide. I know that everyone disagrees with me, but that's my opinion. Thank you.


--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Date: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 10:56 AM




Good, thanks for the advice. It's definitely apparent that I'm not getting valid signals on AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 but the others look okay.

I removed IC25 & IC26 as suggested. This seemed to make a lot of sense, since the left LED digit would give random values upon power up -- and sometimes change to another random value when I heard the reset "click". Whereas the right one would always show "8." This didn't fix the issue, though. But I can order replacement chips as suggested when/if I get the rest of the circuit operational.

I am seeing a high pulse at the Reset pin of the main uProcessor shortly after startup, then it stays low. So I don't think it's constantly resetting itself or anything. Something somewhere has to be crashing the data bus on those three lines. Power looks good to me -- how can I check for ripple? Caps show no signs of bulging/leaking. I don't guess there's an easy way to isolate parts of the circuit to check for faults. Awful lot of chips to replace one by one -- don't think I'd want to go that far, unless I had a good guess what was wrong.

I agree that the amount of work put into debugging a circuit like this is worth the money for the expertise -- but, as you've said, not worth it for the DX when I can wait and get a new one sometime for under 200 easily. I paid 50 for this one, the guy told me it just needed a new battery (obviously just trying to get rid of it.)

Any other ideas/guesses greatly appreciated! I'll keep poking in it as I continue to think of stuff to test/try.

Thanks,
Lars



On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 12:28 PM, Gregg Sheehan <***@yahoo. com> wrote:




Alan's right. Use the scope. For digital work, a DMM goes about as far as the power supply for a troubleshooting tool.He is also right about the specific voltage levels of data and address signals. They are rarely perfect 0 VDC and 5VDC. This is where experience will tell you that a good data line, for example is typically 3.5 volts high( or higher), and conversly "off" will not be perfectly zero but around.7 (transistor threshold).
All this yapping and typing, is refreshing my memory ( pun intended). DX UPC troubleshooting 101----make sure the reset circuitry is functioning. Monitor the reset line with scope- power up and after a short delay, there should be a state change and the reset line will then settle to whatever it's normal running state is. (Hi/ low? -I forget- the schematic will say- "reset" with the "not"line over is active low, run state is high) Note that this happens a short time AFTER the supply voltages come up.
Another point of failure- the D/A converter and D/A buffer. I will look at a schematic and see if anything else pops up. Is the power supply clean?- ripple will cause many headaches. Pooched filter caps were common.
Re: the guy charging 200.00. It sounds like a lot, but imagine spending an afternoon doing this with no resolution. You only make what you bill out. I'm fixing an OB-8 right now- same type of problem- it will be expensive, but these go for huge money right now- almost approaching new list price- 3-4K$, so it's worth it, to spend 200-500 on repair. Not so our beloved DX boards, unfortunately. It's like all the cheap throw away Chinese audio appliances, n'est pas?


Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 11:06 PM



Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth. Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear. I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic. The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s. This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18). Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal. Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0. Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus. Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave. Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system. All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity. If their is no activity check the cor
responding data/address pin opposite it for activity. IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is low.
The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.

If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any signal, then it should be replaced. I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find. Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip. Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board. Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs. Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.




________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift?Give the gift of Flickr!
Gregg Sheehan
2009-05-28 18:48:39 UTC
Permalink
Alan,
 
You must live somewhere the average house price, is not $800,000.
Standard bench service rate, in this particular part of the world, was $45 an hour, thirty years ago.
Car mechanics are well over 120 per hour, now.
I'm just sayin'..........

Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Alan Probandt <***@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 5:37 PM













To check ripple, set the scope on AC input; 1 volt per division.  Put the probe on the +5V, the +15v line, or the -15V line,  NOT the main power 120VAC line.  Ripple will look like the top  of an airplane wing.  It shouldn't be more than a quarter volt peak-to-peak.
 
  As a microprocessor electronics technician, I disagree with the idea that someone should get $200 to 'look' at a an old system that costs $50.  A skilled person should be able to find obvious and 'easy' stuff in about a half hour of probing if they have a schematic.  They should charge $20 for that first half hour.  They should speak a report as the work into a speech-to-text program and give the text file either as a printed report or as a file on a flash disk to the customer if they can't fix the problem in a half hour.  They should charge no more than $40 an hour and no more than twice what they paid for the parts they replace.
  With the economy collapsing it's time people started being realistic about what they charge for the services they provide.  I know that everyone disagrees with me, but that's my opinion.  Thank you.
 

--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com> wrote:


From: Lars Larsen <creatorlars@ gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Date: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 10:56 AM




Good, thanks for the advice.  It's definitely apparent that I'm not getting valid signals on AD0/D0, AD2/D2, AD3/D3 but the others look okay.

I removed IC25 & IC26 as suggested.  This seemed to make a lot of sense, since the left LED digit would give random values upon power up -- and sometimes change to another random value when I heard the reset "click".  Whereas the right one would always show "8."  This didn't fix the issue, though.  But I can order replacement chips as suggested when/if I get the rest of the circuit operational. 

I am seeing a high pulse at the Reset pin of the main uProcessor shortly after startup, then it stays low.  So I don't think it's constantly resetting itself or anything.  Something somewhere has to be crashing the data bus on those three lines.  Power looks good to me -- how can I check for ripple?  Caps show no signs of bulging/leaking.  I don't guess there's an easy way to isolate parts of the circuit to check for faults.  Awful lot of chips to replace one by one -- don't think I'd want to go that far, unless I had a good guess what was wrong.

I agree that the amount of work put into debugging a circuit like this is worth the money for the expertise -- but, as you've said, not worth it for the DX when I can wait and get a new one sometime for under 200 easily.  I paid 50 for this one, the guy told me it just needed a new battery (obviously just trying to get rid of it.)

Any other ideas/guesses greatly appreciated!  I'll keep poking in it as I continue to think of stuff to test/try.

Thanks,
Lars



On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 12:28 PM, Gregg Sheehan <***@yahoo. com> wrote:













Alan's right. Use the scope. For digital work, a DMM goes about as far as the power supply for a troubleshooting tool.He is also right about the specific voltage levels of data and address signals. They are rarely perfect 0 VDC and 5VDC. This is where experience will tell you that a good data line, for example is typically 3.5 volts high( or higher), and conversly "off" will not be perfectly zero but around.7 (transistor threshold).
All this yapping and typing, is refreshing my memory ( pun intended). DX UPC troubleshooting 101----make sure the reset circuitry is functioning. Monitor the reset line with scope- power up and after a short delay, there should be a state change and the reset line will then settle to whatever it's normal running state is. (Hi/ low? -I forget- the schematic will say- "reset" with the "not"line over is active low, run state is high) Note that this happens a short time AFTER the supply voltages come up.
 Another point of failure- the D/A converter and D/A buffer. I will look at a schematic and see if anything else pops up. Is the power supply clean?- ripple will cause many headaches. Pooched filter caps were common.
Re: the guy charging 200.00. It sounds like a lot, but imagine spending an afternoon doing this with no resolution. You only make what you bill out. I'm fixing an OB-8 right now- same type of problem- it will be expensive, but these go for huge money right now- almost approaching new list price- 3-4K$, so it's worth it, to spend 200-500 on repair. Not so our beloved DX boards, unfortunately. It's like all the cheap throw away Chinese audio appliances, n'est pas?


Gregg Sheehan

If one person has delusions, we call them psychotic. If, however, 1.5 billion people have delusions we must apparently call them a religious group, and respect their delusionary state.

--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Alan Probandt <alan_probandt@ yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Re: DX7 is not booting up at all!
To: ***@yahoogroup s.com
Received: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 11:06 PM









Gee, I wish that I could get $200 just to look at a vintage synth.  Most likely this technician is just saying that to avoid dealing with vintage microprocessor gear.   I'm reminded of this when I looked at the DX7 schematic.  The 63B03 CPU is a clone of the Motorola 6803 that was popular for a period of time in the late 1970s.  This was the CPU in the first computer that I ever bought, the Radio Shack MC-10 (mini-color computer) in 1984. I was a student then and remember reading about signal lines like 'E' that are unique to this CPU family. But it has been a long time.
  IC32 is a data bus transceiver that strengthens the data lines between the CPU and all the memory chips. It's a 74LS245, not a 254. It definitely should have clean signals (0 to +4.5v) and very active signals on the pins of the right side of the chip (pins 11-18).  Actually any voltage level on the Data pins (11-18) that is above +3.5V will be a valid logic 1 signal.  Anything below 0.7v is a logic 0.  Anything between +3.5 and 0.7 is an invalid logic level and should never be seen on the data bus.  Pin 19 will show about 1.18MHz and it should be a stable waveform on the scope, although probably not a square wave.  Having IC32 be bad would definitely muck up the system.  All the data lines on the right side of the chip should show constant activity.  If their is no activity check the corresponding data/address pin opposite it for activity.  IC32 allows data on one side of the chip to flow (and be amplified) out the other side when pin 19 \E is
low.  The direction of the data, either from the CPU to the RAM and sound chips, or from the ROM to the CPU depends on the logic of the DIR pin 1.

  If several of the data pins on this chip are definitely not showing any signal, then it should be replaced.  I'll catch the devil for saying this, but you can substitute a 74HCT245 if a 74LS245 is impossible to find.   Get a very small pair of diagonal clippers and cut each pin of the bad chip right at the body of the chip.  Leave the other end of the pins soldered to the board.  Solder the pin tips of the new chip to the clipped pins of the old chip. Power up and check that the data bus signals are getting through the new chip and to the memory ICs.  Don't use the frequency meter to test if the signals on IC32 are good, use the scope.






Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!























__________________________________________________________________
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca
Wendy Stringer
2013-03-09 18:44:55 UTC
Permalink
Yamaha DX7 LED = 88, LCD = Black Boxes caused by a bad 9.4265 MHz Crystal

I had the problem with my DX7 (after it was dropped from a height of 4 feet when the keyboard stand collapsed) where upon power up the LED display was "88" and the LCD display was all black boxes, and none of the keys or buttons worked.

Doing a Google search for "dx7 display 88" I saw where others had posted of having similar problems and their attempts to troubleshoot but nothing of a final fix for this, so I am posting my experience here.

After some trobleshooting (opening up the DX7, removing and inspecting all the circuit boards looking for cracks, checking for +5, +15, -15 voltages at the ICs), turning off the power and removing the CR2032 memory battery and waiting to reset everything back to its default state with no results, I then thought to check for clock frequencies using an oscilloscope. There was no 9.4265 master clock frequency at pins 5 or 6 of IC 48, just a straight line. For comparison there was a 4 MHz clock frequency (a nice beautiful 4 MHz sine wave) at pins 4 and 5 of Sub CPU IC 13.

Not having a spare 9.4265 MHz Crystal I substituted a much more common 10.000 MHz crystal for test purposes and the displays came up normally (except for the patch memory obviously being wiped out). I ordered a 9.4265 MHz crystal from International Crystal Manufacturing http://www.icmfg.com/ 1-800-725-1426 and ordered a 9.4265 MHz HC-49 case, series resonant, 20 pf load capacitance (because they insisted of having these specs defined and I thought these were the most likely for that crystal) and was told three weeks delivery time.

***@gmail.com
March 9, 2013

Pictures:
Loading Image...
Loading Image...
Loading Image...
Loading Image...


--- In ***@yahoogroups.com, "creatorlars84" <***@...> wrote:

Hello all --

I just purchased a Yamaha DX7 and am very excited about exploring this synth. However, when I power it on, I get nothing but "00" in the LED display, and a row of black squares on the LCD. Buttons, faders, etc don't get any response at all and the audio output produces nothing. I replaced the battery (CR2032) and the voltages on the power rails and across the battery measure fine with my multimeter. The unit is beautiful and clean inside, with no noticeable faults or connection issues. I'm fearing the worst here, that one of the core CPU-related chips is dead. It seems like with something this basic, the fault has to be something that simple.

Any troubleshooting advice or guidance is greatly appreciated. I know there are some chip replacements available here, but I don't want to pay $35 for a chip I can't at least guess will work.

Best Regards,
Lars Larsen
Wendy Stringer
2013-03-31 16:50:04 UTC
Permalink
Status update on my DX7 repair.

Replacement 9.4265 MHz Crystal arrives from International Crystal Manufacturing:

Loading Image...

DX7 on work bench ready to be worked on to be made working again:

Loading Image...
Top panel flipped up:

Loading Image...

Key bed mounting assembly flipped up showing the cables on the right underside (there are also two sets of wires on the left side that you seperate the connectors to without flipping the keybed mounting assembly upside down):

[IMG]Loading Image...[/IMG]

Key bed mounting assembly removed:

Loading Image...

Metal piece over lower part of circuit board removed:

Loading Image...

Old crystal removed showing Solder-Wick copper braid that was used with the soldering iron to suck up the solder from the crystal mounting holes on the circuit board:

Loading Image...

Soldering in the new crystal on the underside of the circuit board:

Loading Image...

New crystal mounted on circuit board:

Loading Image...

I used a plastic washer and Goop clear sealant to mount the case to the circuit board for added shock resistance. (It is not necessary to do this):

Loading Image...

Sending patch bank to DX7 using MIDI transfer program and MIDI cable: (DX7: [Memory Protect] [Internal] = OFF, [Function] [8] MIDI SYSTEM EXCLUSIVE = AVAIL).

Loading Image...

Success! All patches and sounds check out ok!

Loading Image...

Continue reading on narkive:
Loading...